Chasing hedonia: Sydney to Paris, overland, solo, on a KTM

I have a KTM 690 Enduro, a love of bad ideas, and I’m on the road. In February 2017 I loaded up my motorbike and set out to ride overland through Asia and the Middle East, all the way to Paris.

I’m not on a schedule and I don’t know know how long this will take; and although I have set out with a broad geographical arc in mind, who knows where I’ll end up? Follow my misadventures on my blog – the latest update is here – and trace my route here.

COVID19 Update: Borders are closed all over south east Asia. I’m holed up in Thailand for the moment, waiting it out. As soon as the borders open again, I’ll be back on the road.

My KTM, Beastie, likes a bit of dirt and I’m dreaming of the Karakorums, the Pamir Highway, roads up through the mountains in Jammu and Kashmir. I’m dreaming of Iran and the ‘Stans.

I’m heading off on my own and making for the horizon, because you can’t always wait for someone else to make your dreams real. I’m a woman obsessed with motorbikes, a lover of bad ideas; a girl who grew up in the bush, a lawyer, a writer, an adventurer.

I resigned my job and left behind the things I worked for, the comforts I had. I’m a hobo with a motorbike. I reckon it will take me a year or two to get to Paris – the long way, the slow way, via the places that I don’t even know I need to go. Who knows how this is going to turn out.

It’s going to be a hell of an adventure.

Follow along with me – because every adventurer needs a community. Here on my blog I’ll be writing longform about what I see, the lessons learned and the moments that make my heart race; there’ll be photos and video too. Follow me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram for the quotidian ridiculousness and closer-to-realtime updates

You can even subscribe on YouTube and watch it all unfold.

The Route

Yes, there are a few watery bits between Sydney and Paris. I’ll put the bike on the cargo ferry from Darwin to Dili, East Timor, then I’ll cross the land border into Indonesia and take a few onion boats up through the islands of Indonesia and Malaysia before I hit the mainland. Then it’s overland all the way to Europe, through Thailand, Myanmar, then into Northern India and the foothills of the Himalayas. I’m heading for the soaring mountains and gravel tracks of Ladahk, then into Pakistan, some of the Karakorams if it’s not too bitterly cold yet. From Pakistan it’s into Iran, then from Iran, into the Stans. From there, probably Turkey, Bulgaria, who knows.

If you’d like to know where I’ve actually ended up so far – which is not always the same thing as where I think I’m going – have a look at my actual route map here.

Thoughtful - Ballast Point

Photo: Keith Plunkett Photography

Support the Adventure

If you’d like to be a part of this adventure, I can always do with a little help from my friends. Can I do something for you? Can we trade skills, knowledge, stories? And hell, I need stuff…like oil, sprockets, fuel, socks: want to sponsor me? Please do get in touch.

I’m proud to ride with the support of Metzeler tyres, Giant Loop adventure packing systems, and Guglatech fuel filters.

My unending thanks also to Axel’s Bike Shop and Jopa in the Netherlands for helping to keep me in boots and gloves, to Zoom in With Eden and Keith Plunkett for the photos in which I look better than usual, Woo Social Club for a damn fine party and everyone who’s so generously helped me to understand, fix and maintain my bike along the road. Brett, Andy, Pat, Bob, Brad, Justin, Colin, Phil, Ilham, Made, thank you. To those of you who opened up their workshops to me: Queensland Motorcycle Doctors on the Gold Coast, Prima Mandiri Modification in Manado, Stunning Bike in Kota Kinabalu, John Motor and Gerald Lyuhung in Kuching, your generosity is deeply appreciated. Every little bit of information, moral support, workspace, spare parts, and practical help has helped hold together this crazy journey over the last two years. THANK YOU.

Support my Work

If you find yourself enjoying my writing or my video updates along the way and would like to see more of them, you can always Paypal me a few pennies to keep me on the road. No reason why you should, but always much appreciated; it’s a long road and a little bit goes a long way.